I thought I wouldn't like pimento cheese. I also thought that after four years of writing about food in Durham I had a pretty good grip on what's going on around here. Not that I have the means to eat out all the time - but I've made a point to try many of the local jewels I've written about like Rue Cler, Toast and Parker & Otis.
So when I went on a recent food tour of our Bull City, I did not expect enlightenment, let alone the palate-shattering experience that was trying pimento cheese for the first time. I was proven delightfully wrong thanks to Taste Carolina Gourmet Food Tours.
I was also humbled by the act of walking around downtown, rather than driving around, which is what I've been doing since I moved here.
Downtown Durham is not that big - I knew that. But I never had a reason to walk from American Tobacco, where the food tour begins - with a Daisy Cakes cupcake no less - all the way to Piedmont, up to Brightleaf Square for a stop at Parker & Otis, down to Locopops and Rue Cler, then back to American Tobacco for a finale at Tyler's Taproom.
Typically, Toast on Main Street is part of the mix, but owners Kelly and Billy Cotter had closed the restaurant the day of my particular food tour. The tour company's co-founders, Lesley Stracks-Mullem and Joe Philipose, are die-hard foodies who enjoy street food as much as fine dining. They aim to show people the most unique places in town and have tours organized on themes like chocolate, barbecue and farmers markets.
The basic Durham tour I took in September ran on a sunny Saturday afternoon, and after meeting up with my group (there were nine of us) outside the Old Bull Apartments at the corner of Pettigrew and Blackwell streets, I tasted an autumnal apple cupcake and was handed a bottle of water by Dean Michaels, our energetic guide.
Dean, who is the kind of guy who picks up other people's litter while walking around, told us that we'd be getting a taste of Durham's history as well. I scoffed a bit at that, but within minutes learned that the SunTrust building, the tallest downtown, was designed by the same architect who did the Empire State Building in New York City. Did not know that.
Our first stop was Piedmont on Foster Street, where we had a piece of seared tuna with eggplant caponata and basil. Some tried a lemony alcoholic concoction for a few extra dollars. The tuna was moist, the caponata tangy and bursting with flavor. (Let it be said that the staff at Piedmont agreed to the tour that day even though one of its members was getting married that very evening - and they were catering the event!)
After about 20 minutes or so, we trekked up a hill behind Durham Central Park's pavilion - a street I'd never set foot on - and wound our way to Parker & Otis. While walking through West Village, another first, Dean pointed out architectural features on the buildings that I'd never appreciated before.
At Parker & Otis, I was informed the sample would be a grilled pimento cheese sandwich. I'd heard about said cheese, and knew that Bon Apetit Magazine had written it up while profiling this area as the Foodiest Small Town in America a while back. But I don't like peppers - never have.
But the early lesson I learned reading "Green Eggs and Ham" kicked in and I decided to try it. And wouldn't you know? I liked it. The cheese-to-pimento ratio was ideal, and those little red flecks were so vinegary that they didn't really taste like peppers at all, at least by my fussy standards. I told Jennings Brody, the owner, she had another convert and we headed toward Locopops where I chose the grapefruit hibiscus popsicle as my refreshing little treat.
Next stop was Rue Cler, which brought another moment of enlightenment in the form of golden beets. I'm a fan of red beets, but now know that given the option, I'd take the gold. We had a smart salad with Dijon vinaigrette, candied pecans, goat cheese from Elodie Farms and chives. Those who cared for it also received a glass of white wine.
The finale was back at Tyler's Taproom - a real beer tasting. I also don't like beer unless it's a lambic and tastes like a Shirley Temple, plus I'm pregnant, but the large bag of Madpopper popcorn I was handed assuaged any frustrations I might have had. The Madpopper is another local business and the mix of caramel, butter and cheesy popcorn was this craving-prone woman's carb fantasy come true.
The other special feature about this experience is that you will get to sit in some of these restaurants during off hours. The tour runs between lunch and dinner, and there's something mysterious, and quite special, about a restaurant that's open only for you.
The other folks on the tour with me were a mix from around the Triangle, and for many the local food scene was a mystery. I can brag that I already knew much of what Dean shared on that front, but for those who want a crash course on local chefs and eateries, this tour would be ideal. For $37, you get a hearty, but not filling, sampling of goods as well as a lot of information and a lovely time.
Never has a "three-hour tour" been so tasty.