There seem to be just a few holes left in Durham’s culinary tapestry, among them authentic Asian joints (think Vietnamese, Malaysian) with generous portions and a moderate price point, and a decent bagel and donut shop.
Oh, wait.
Lindsay Moriarty, 27, and her fiancé, Rob Gillespie, 27, are filling at least one food hole with food that has holes. Monuts Donuts, a donut shop that will also feature bagels and other breakfast fare, should be opening sometime soon at 110 E. Parrish St. downtown.
You might have seen them at the Durham Farmer’s Market with their food cart, from which they have been selling freshly fried donuts inspired by the season and what’s fresh since the fall of 2011. Prices range from $1.50 to $2 per donut, a bit of a discount for an even dozen, and it will be the same at the shop.
They will also be offering homemade English muffins and breakfast sandwiches, coffee and the like, sort of like a diner but with a more limited menu.
Like many a Durham food entrepreneur, this whole donut thing started innocently enough. Moriarty is the daughter of a chef who does not bake, but she was raised in a foodie household and caught the baking bug early. Her parents tried to dissuade her, however, from working in the food world professionally.
“It takes over your life,” she explained. “But I’ve always loved to bake, and I’ve always loved being in the kitchen.”
She grew up in Florida and came to Durham back in 2007 with then boyfriend Gillespie, so they could both attend graduate school. She graduated from UNC with master’s degrees in public health and economic development and started looking for a job in her field. When it took longer expected, she started making donuts.
A natural evolution.Why donuts? She saw it was one of those edible gems that Durham did not have yet, other than a few national chains.
During grad school the couple began having brunch with friends, and she experimented with homemade donuts. Her budding business began on a trike that a friend salvaged from a scrap yard, and she pedaled her fresh donuts around various neighborhoods and then at the farmer’s market.
When a private investor approached her about opening a shop, the couple decided that donuts were in their hearts, even though her fiancé will be graduating this spring from Duke with a Ph.D. in biochemistry.
Maybe these two brainiacs will come up with donut flavors the average baker might not. As it is, they are quite innovative, always seeking to balance the sweet with some funky savory, as seen with the lemon pistachio they sold a few weeks ago, or the chili mango. Customer favorites that make frequent appearances include glazed, toasted amoretto, and chocolate Earl Grey.
“What sets us apart is everything is handmade,” Moriarty said.
Most donuts are made using some sort of mechanization, but they hand cut each one, re-rolling the holes back into more donuts. The couple rents space out of The Cookery right now, and wakes up by 4 a.m. the days they sell to make sure the donuts are fresh – they don’t last long on the shelf.
The shop won’t have set hours to start, but they think somewhere from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. will suffice.
“What I’m looking forward to most is that in our shop, we’ll have room to grow,” Moriarty said. “We’ll have a full kitchen, wine and beer licenses and the freedom and flexibility to continue to expand our menu and hours as we see fit.”
And as for her dual master’s degrees – they might prove to be more than an impressive line on her resume. One of her focuses in school was health disparity and service-level jobs. As an employer, she now has a “unique opportunity” to put into practice some of the things she believes workers have a right to – like affordable health care and a living wage.
Oh, and if you’re wondering what Monuts means, it’s a play on Moriarty’s nickname, Motown.
And so, another food hole has been filled . . . with yummy hole-filled food.
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