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Published: Aug 23, 2008 12:30 AM
Modified: Aug 23, 2008 02:39 AM

Masses slow to warm to taquerias
'Crossover' taco joints bridge the gap
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It's no secret that Durham's Hispanic population is growing rapidly. One of the big benefits has been an explosion of authentic taquer'as, where tacos don't come in a hard shell, varied homemade salsas abound, and queso fresco reigns supreme.

The only problem is, many non-Hispanics are afraid to try them out. After Gourmet Magazine, the posh food publication, ran a feature on the taquer'as of Durham this past September, many restaurant owners said more English-speaking residents found the courage to give them a shot. Some reported that as many as 60 percent of their clients are non-Hispanic.

But not everyone reads Gourmet.

To expand the palates of anyone who likes Mexican food but has yet to try the real stuff, this is a roundup of some of the yumminess that awaits in our own backyard. And for those still a bit hesitant, there are also a number of "crossover" Mexican restaurants with some less spicy options that can be just as good.

Just ask the Flores brothers and their partner, Alejandro Denis. Omar and Eleazar Flores own La Superior, the large Hispanic grocery store on North Roxboro Street, and its sister restaurant, Super Taquer'a, down the street. The native Mexicans opened The Best Burrito on Hillsborough Road with Denis, also from Mexico, earlier this year as a more mainstream alternative with a burrito focus.

What makes it more mainstream, you might ask?

For starters, in addition to a pretty clear-cut, American name, the menu is in both Spanish and English -- many non-Hispanics are most intimidated by the fear they won't be able to read the menu or place an order in a "real" taco joint.

The salsas at The Best Burrito are made with just a few peppers and none of the heat-bearing seeds; the restaurant uses mozzarella cheese instead of the classic Mexican queso fresco, and regular sour cream rather than the sourer, runnier crema. The Best Burrito uses flour tortillas, while traditional corn tortillas are served at Super Taquer'a. Both are made fresh at the grocery store.

Tony Sustaita had a similar goal when he opened Chubby's Tacos on Ninth Street in May with his longtime friend Jody Lytton. Born in the U.S. but of Mexican descent, he owns the Bandido's chain, where he has offered a tempered, but not overly dumbed-down Mexican menu for years. He often took white friends to more authentic taquer'as, but found they were hesitant to go by themselves. The answer came in Chubby's -- another crossover establishment, which has such a strong lunch crowd that people sometimes turn away at the sight of the line.

The flour tortillas are hand-pressed and the corn tortillas are pattied by hand, Sustaita said. Chubby's offers seven fresh salsas, and the menu is in Spanish and English. The entire staff, he said, speaks English, and fresh is the key ingredient.

Whether you're interested in trying the lengua guisada (marinated cow tongue) or want to keep to your basic chicken taco, Durham is full of options. The important thing is not to be intimidated out of a good meal.

eshestak@mac.com
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