I'm not much of a tea drinker, and I was told this was nothing like the high tea I love so much at the Washington Duke Inn, where you get sandwiches with the crust cut off and petite desserts.

No, this would be entirely different - but still an exceptional experience. The Durham-Toyama Sister Cities Pavilion, the teahouse, is a very peaceful place to visit. So even though there was but one Japanese sweet, yuzu, or citron, from confectioner Toraya of Sendai, Japan, the absence of food did not detract from what was an incredibly moving hour.

"The emphasis of tea practice is on human relationships - the regard that the host and guests have for each other and the creation of a focused moment to connect as human beings in the tearoom," said Nancy Hamilton, cultural programming coordinator for the gardens.

I've never been to Japan, but I imagine this was about as close to the real thing as one could expect in this country. Hamilton doubles as the hantou, or assistant to the host. Donning traditional Japanese kimono with an obi, or sash, and pristine white socks, or tabi with a slit between the big toe for her zori sandals, she explained what each element meant. Fluent in Japanese, she made it easy to forget I was still in Durham that sunny October morning.

The hand-written scroll on the wall read, "Gateway: South, North, East, West; Possibilities in All Directions," and was brushed by Satou Bokudo of Fukujuin. The scroll is meant to direct conversation, as is the simple flower arrangement set beneath it with seasonal flowers. Each utensil, from the hand-carved bamboo teascoop (named Shiratsuyu, meaning white dew drops) to the indigo-glazed tea bowls, was also meant to create a singular moment for the group.

"The conversation can really be quite electrifying," Hamilton said. "That intellectual component is the most attractive component of tea for me."

The teahouse, completed in 2007 in the gardens, has traditional Japanese landscaping, as well as a dipping stone in which guests purify their hands before entering the teahouse itself.

The teahouse is complete with tatami flooring, rice paper walls and floor cushions, though some chairs are available for those unable to stay seated for very long. You also have a choice of either scooting through a small opening (meant to make everyone an equal upon entering), or walking through the door.

Watching the Ikuko Inoue, the teishu, or host, make the tea was mesmerizing. I didn't think folding a napkin could be a poetic movement, but it can. The purifying of the tea bowls, the deliberate yet smooth use of the ladle, and the whisking of the machu, or powdered green tea was simple but beautiful to behold.

As for the tea itself - I am the last person to judge green tea. I do not particularly enjoy it in any form. But this tea, made from powder, drank more like a green cappuccino - the froth on the top is considered the most delicious part. To me it tastes, well, healthy.

If you're interested in attending a tea gathering in November, you will get to experience the start of the new tea calendar. The teakettle will be placed over a sunken hearth closer to guests to keep the unheated room warmer. There will be two gatherings on Nov. 11, with monthly teas resuming in February. The tearoom can only seat eight guests, so call 668-1707 to register. Cost is $20 to friends of the gardens, and $30 to the general public.

Other food happenings:

Today might be Halloween, but The Day of the Dead, or El Día de los Muertos, is Monday. For $35, Dos Perros is offering a four-course prix fixe menu with holiday options like lomo de cerdo en mole coloradito, pork loin with red mole, as well as pan de pueblo, which is candied fruit bread. Call 956-2750 to make a reservation.

Honey's, a time-honored diner located at 2700 Guess Road, has renovated its non-smoking section in recent weeks to encompass the entire restaurant. Stop in for a nicotine-free experience.

Also, Durham's favorite German bakery and café, Guglhufp, 2706 Durham-Chapel Hill Blvd., is now serving dinner. The menu includes salads, small plates, sharing plates, entrees and sides. Think traditional German fare with a Durham twist!

And in Carrboro this weekend, come to an all vegan chili cook-off Sunday, from 4 to 6 p.m. at Johnny's, 901 W. Main St. A suggested $5 donation will benefit Internationalist Books and Community Center in Chapel Hill.