On what should have been the loneliest, dreariest night in years for downtown businesses, Tuesday evening found Revolution, Durham's newest restaurant, brimming with folks who thought dinner out was worth braving the icy roads.

It helped that Tuesday was also opening night of the hit Broadway play "Rent" at the Durham Performing Arts Center. The Duke/N.C. State game also drew some folks in for pre-game appetizers. But then again, events such as these -- proof that Durham is now a destination for the Triangle food and arts scene -- are precisely why owner Chef Jim Anile decided to open his restaurant in what was a stagnant business district not too long ago.

The snow did prompt a number of cancellations that night from folks who moved their theater tickets to later in the week. Even so, at 7 p.m. on a Tuesday night, most tables within the creamy white sanctuary at 107 W. Main St. were full.

Karen Kuhn, a friend of Anile and his wife, Teresa, was eating there for the third time since it opened late last month. Out with friends to see "Rent," she'd promised her husband she would try something new on the menu. Ordering the sweet potato curry again was tempting, she said, but she put it in Anile's hands by going for the Feed Me tasting, a combination of three courses selected by the chef for $40. The Treat Me, $65, includes five courses; the Feast Me, $95, seven.

"It was unlike anything I've ever experienced," Kuhn said of her first tasting.

There is so much variety on the menu, putting the decision in the hands of Anile takes off some of the pressure. The menu also changes daily, as Anile adds a special or two or tweaks existing offerings to suit his taste or the freshness of the ingredients he has that day. The venison carpaccio, stuffed rabbit saddle and filet and sweetbreads seem to be big hits already.

About Anile

Anile resists being categorized, but for lack of a better term says Revolution is contemporary global cuisine.

"I just hope that it's good food," he said recently one afternoon, his restaurant flooded with natural afternoon light. He left his job as head chef at Chapel Hill's Il Palio nearly two years ago to plan Revolution, and the entire project has his personal touch. Ready to leave the creative confines of an Italian-themed restaurant, Anile personally designed the entire restaurant -- located on the first floor of the historic Baldwin building -- and its eclectic menu.

This is very much his baby.

It is a transitional space that has equal bar and sit-down seating, as well as a lounge area -- but you can eat anything off the menu anywhere you like. He imported a Florentine tiled mural, used zebra wood for the bar base, and hung hand-modeled light pendants of unique floral designs above each table. It has a decidedly urban but warm feel. It's all fine dining, but it satisfies both formal and informal audiences.

As of now, Revolution is only open for dinner Monday through Saturday, but Anile hopes to add a Sunday brunch shortly. If the past few weeks have been any indication of whether or not folks would show up -- Revolution has been booked most nights -- Anile should be planning that brunch menu right now.

Considering how difficult restaurants are as business models, and that January is notoriously the worst revenue month of the year (folks don't exactly want to dine out after spending on the holidays and indulging their diets), Anile's success is somewhat exceptional.

Still, he's modest. A triathlete, his instinct to push himself has not been sated.

"It's wonderful that everything is happening exactly as I had hoped, but you sort of don't want to rest on that," Anile said.

Why Durham?

Where just a few years ago there was literally nowhere to eat after hours, and the pickins' were slim for the office lunch crowd, Durham's government and business district has come a long way. With the opening of Rue Cler, Toast and Piedmont, Brightleaf Square is no longer the only area teeming with eateries.

But Revolution brings an entirely new level of sophistication downtown in the way of fine dining, as well as a relaxed late-night bar scene, said Sarah Harris, director of public relations for the restaurant. All patrons have the option of complementary valet services, and the chef's cellar, a separate room in the basement of the restaurant, is ideal for private parties. Flat-screen televisions hang above the raw bar showing in real time what's going on in the kitchen -- perfect for the casual voyeur.

Revolution has also been named the official restaurant for DPAC's President's Club VIP program, and will cater events for the center and host cast parties.

"It really enhances the Broadway experience," said Thorne Daubenspeck, director of sales for the DPAC. They encourage everyone to eat there, not just VIP members.

"Downtown's had some very excellent restaurants for years now in the downtown Brightleaf district, but it is great to see the City Center district get populated," said Reyn Bowman, president and CEO of the Durham Convention and Visitors Bureau. "That will make a big difference."

For professionals who seek a place to walk to while still wearing a suit and tie, or even jeans and a tee, Revolution hopes to fit the bill.

A group of young men took full advantage of this Tuesday night by stopping in for some local draft beers and heavy appetizers before heading to the Duke basketball game. They were talking about coming back after the game was over, too.

"The place is sexy," said Josh Parker, who recently ran for city council.

"It's really cool to see it come around," said his friend Brad Wiese, president of Maverick Partners, the Realtor that sold the Baldwin Building property to Greenfire Development in 2003.

It was Greenfire who tapped Anile to open a restaurant at that location.

"I really like the feel down here," said Anile, who worked in restaurants all over the country before settling in Hillsborough seven years ago.

He now considers Durham a second home of sorts.

"I really like what's happening."